[62], The young noblemen of Paris, since the end of the 16th century, attended special schools called academies, where they were taught a range of military skills: horseback riding, fencing, marksmanship, the art of fortification and organizing sieges, as well as the social skills that they needed to succeed at the court: dance, music, writing, arithmetic, drawing, and understanding heraldry and coats-of-arms. Mazarin left funds in his will to build the Collège des Quatre-Nations (College of the Four Nations) (1662–1672), an ensemble of four baroque palaces and a domed church, to house sixty young noble students coming to Paris from four provinces recently attached to France (today it is the Institut de France). The royal government sought to turn the University into a training school for magistrates and state officials, but found that the faculty was only trained in canon, or church law. The two levels were connected with s-shaped volutes and consoles, and the whole facade was covered with niches and other decorative elements. He moved his Paris residence from the Palais-Royal to the more secure Louvre: then, in 1671, he moved the royal residence out of the city to Versailles, and came into Paris as seldom as possible. It was inspired by the gardens of her native Florence, particularly the Boboli Gardens, The garden was divided into squares of fruit trees and vegetable gardens divided by perpendicular alleys and by boxwood hedges and rows of cypress trees. The young women, dressed in gray skirts and white cornettes, carried pots of soup to the poor of the neighborhoods. Henry and his builders also decided to add an innovation to the Paris cityscape; three new residential squares, modeled after those in Italian Renaissance cities. The 1640s saw womenswear trend in a softer and slightly simpler direction, with low necklines and billowing three-quarter length sleeves often in satin of a single color. In the center of the old medieval fortress, where the great round tower had been, he created the harmonious Cour Carrée, or square courtyard, with its sculpted facades. Thanks in large part to the efforts of Vincent de Paul, the parishes became much more actively involved in giving assistance to the poor and the sick, and giving schooling to young children. Pascal's company was a great success at the beginning, but over the years it was not able to make money; after the death of Pascal, it went out of business in 1677. According to Madame de Sevigné, in 1635 a procession of Benedictine monks refused to give way to a procession of Rogations, leading to a fight in the street in which two monks were struck with crucifixes and knocked unconscious. Paris became the home of the new Royal Academy of Painting and Sculpture, and of some of France's most famous writers, including Pierre Corneille, Jean Racine, La Fontaine and Moliere. [16], In his absence, his construction projects within Paris continued. At the beginning of May, the royal army of Turenne defeated the Frondeurs under Condé at Étampes, not far from Paris; they fought again at Saint Denis April 10 and 12. The hierarchy of the Church in Paris were all members of the higher levels of the nobility, with close connections to the royal family. [66], Culture and the arts flourished in Paris in the 17th century, but, particularly under Louis XIV, the artists were dependent upon the patronage and taste of the King. Behind them came the relics of the saint, carried by twenty men, also barefoot and dressed in white, carrying a jeweled chasse, followed by the members of the Parlement of Paris in their ceremonial scarlet robes, and the leaders of the leading guilds of craftsmen and artisans. The effort ends in a riot, with many killed. At the beginning of the century the pioneer Parisian theater company, the Confrérie de la Passion, installed itself in one of the buildings of the Hôtel de Bourgogne at 23 rue Saint-Etienne; it also rented out the space to visiting English and Italian theater companies. The Fronde quickly split into rival factions, while Mazarin did not have the funds to raise an army to defeat it. In 1669, fiacres were required to have large numbers painted in yellow on the sides and rear of the coach. The different classical orders were on display one above the other on the facade, but the dome, gilded and sculpted, rather than the facade, was the principal decorative feature. After the ceremony the site became known as the Place du Trône, or place of the Throne, until it became the Place de la Nation in 1880. [49] Poor harvests and speculation on the price of grain caused bread shortages and created hunger and riots, particularly in the winter of 1693-1694. The number of masters in the guild increased from 275 in 1672 to 552 in 1697. 13 September – The King, Queen Mother and Mazarin leave Paris for, 18 January – Mazarin orders the arrest of, 21 January – A flood carries away half of the. Inside the church was rectangular with a high vaulted ceiling, with chapels on both sides. Mazarin, victorious, returned to Paris on February 3, 1653 and took charge once again of the government. This put him into opposition with the medical school of the University of Paris, which denounced him. The evolution of fashions. By the late 18th century, the trend was dying out. Van der Neer’s Judith represents a 17th-century vision of a biblical character and is full of ravishing contemporary fashion detail. ). They recorded the name of a traveler coming into the quarter, whether he stayed in a hotel, a cabaret with rooms, or a private home. Louis XIV declared that Paris was secure against any attack, and no longer needed its old walls. This tax, called "la Paullete" for the secretary, was so successful that it was expanded, so that wealthy Parisians who were not noble could purchase positions which gave them noble rank. A highly successful artist in Amsterdam, Ferdinand Bol, much like Rembrandt, became known for the detailed characterization of his sitters–in particular his portraits of women. 1670s womenswear saw the advent of the looped-up overskirt along with a growing enthusiasm for brocade fabrics. He decreed toleration of the Protestants with the Edict of Nantes, and imposed an end to the war with Spain and Savoy. After the election, held on August 16 of even-numbered years, the new Provost and new echevins were taken by carriage to the Louvre where they took an oath in person to the King and Queen.[29]. One estimate put their number at forty thousand at the beginning of the reign of Louis XIII. During the first part of the regime of Louis XIII Paris prospered and expanded, but the beginning of French involvement the Thirty Years' War against the Holy Roman Empire and the Habsburgs in 1635 brought heavy new taxes and hardships. The most important was in honor of the patron saint of the city, Saint Geneviève, from the church on the left bank containing her tomb to the Cathedral of Notre-Dame. With much of Europe at war, menswear took on a more militaristic edge and a parallel simplification, with the wearing of buff coats widely adopted in England. As soon as the ceremony at Notre-Dame concluded, Mazarin had three prominent members of the Parlement arrested. [19], There were two main north-south streets through the city; one from Porte Saint Martin to Porte Saint-Jacques, which crossed the Seine on the Pont Notre-Dame, and a second wide street from Porte Saint-Denis to the Porte Saint-Michel, crossing the Pont au Change and the Pont Saint-Michel. Louis XIII, the Queen, nobles and wealthy bourgeois organized concerts and recitals and took music lessons. February – Creation of the position of the Lieutenant-General of the King for the government of Paris. On April 24, 1617, Louis had his captain of the guards assassinate Concini at the Louvre. A large number of Parisians were elderly, sick, or unable to work because of injuries. [38], Followers of the church in Paris were divided by a new theological movement called Jansenism, founded by a Dutch theologian named Cornelius Jansen, who died in 1638. [24], In 1638, he took on another ambitious project; providing food and care for the abandoned infants of Paris, the enfants trouvés. 1972-26-1156. The terrible conditions were repeated in the winter of 1693-94. March – Royal letters of patent give to Laudati de Caraffa the privilege of establishing stations of torch-bearers and lantern-bearers to escort people through the dark streets at night. On the left bank, the edges of the city were at rue de Tolbiac to the east and close to the modern Pont d'Alma to the west. He began by buying a large mansion, the Hôtel de Rambouillet, to which he added an enormous garden, three times larger than the present Palais-Royal garden, ornamented with a fountain in the center, flowerbeds and rows of ornamental trees, and surrounded by arcades and buildings. But another ambitious project, an exuberant design by Bernini for the eastern facade of the Louvre, was never built; it was replaced by a more severe and less expensive colonnade, whose construction proceeded very slowly due to a lack of funds. 14 October – The Fronde collapses, and Condé flees the city. Music was also seen as an important weapon of the Counter-Reformation, along with baroque art, to win ordinary people to the side of the Catholic Church. They were responsible for the city's small armed force, the Milice Municipale and the Chevaliers de la guet, or night watchmen. The most famous painter to work in Paris during the period was Peter Paul Rubens, who came to the city in 1622 to paint a series of murals for the Luxembourg Palace which now are in the Louvre. Perrin's rival, the court composer Lully, wanted his own opera house; in 1672 he used a tennis court on the rue de Vaugirard for his first opera; then, taking advantage of Moliere's death in 1673, he was able to expel Moliere's actors from the theater of the Palais-Royal and take it over for himself. Beneath the Provost and echevins there were numerous municipal officials, all selected from the bourgeoisie; two procureurs, three receveurs, a greffier, ten huissiers, a Master of Bridges, a Commissaire of the Quais, fourteen guardians of the city gates, and the Governor of the clock tower. [33], With this royal encouragement, the financier Moisset launched an enterprise to make cloth woven with threads of gold, silver and silk. 6 May – The official seat of the monarchy is moved from the, The drinking of coffee with milk comes into fashion, described by, Ordinance permitting the Vilain family to open public baths along the river between the. [1], Once established in Paris, Henry worked to reconcile himself with the leaders of the Catholic Church. On May 13, 1648, the Parlement called a meeting in the Chambre Saint-Louis, the main hall of the Palace on the île de la Cité, to "reform the abuses of the State".[11]. His elder brother had been Bishop of Paris before him, and he was succeeded as Archbishop by his nephew; members of the Gondi family were the bishops and archbishops of Paris for nearly a century from 1570 to 1662. A new style of long collarless coat displaced the doublet by the end of the decade. It was named because its residents often appeared to blind or lame when on the streets but were perfectly whole when they returned home. The architectural style of the French Renaissance continued to dominate in Paris through the Regency of Marie de' Medici. By the 18th century a majority of children in Paris were in various kinds of schools; there were 316 private schools for paying students, regulated by the church, and another eighty free schools for the poor, including twenty-six schools for girls, plus additional schools founded by the new religious orders in Paris. Paris in the 17th century was the largest city in Europe, with a population of half a million, matched in size only by London. [55], A ceremony from pre-Christian times, the Fire of Saint-Jean, was avidly celebrated in Paris on June 23, to mark the summer solstice. The soldiers of Condé, furious, attacked the assembly, killing some of the members, further alienating the Parisians. Another type of church facade appeared in the same period, imitating the church of the Jesuits in Rome built in 1568. In the 18th century, taking drinking water from the river in the center of the city was finally banned. Although the French set fashion trends in the sixteenth century, England royalty Henry VIII wore the most extravagant of clothing. The dyeing industry was located in the Faubourg Saint-Marcel, along the River Bievre, which was quickly polluted by the workshops and dye vats along its banks. Nicholson, Kathleen. The 1620s saw the adoption of leg-of-mutton sleeves in both men’s and womenswear; while men’s clothing achieved an elegant, longer line, women’s dress became high-waisted and fuller. The Gobelins' workshops began to produce furniture for the royal residences as well as tapestries, while the Savonnerie Manufactory produced magnificent carpets for the royal palaces. Girardon created a monumental statue of Louis XIV on horseback for the center of Place Louis-la-Grand (now Place Vendôme). Followers of the Jansenists included the philosopher Blaise Pascal and playwright Jean Racine. Anyone who circulated a pamphlet or flyer critical of the king was subject to whipping, banishment and a sentence to the galleys. It was possible to walk at a brisk pace from the north end of the city to the south, a distance of about three kilometers, in about half an hour. This hall had very poor acoustics, but it was used for spectacular dance performances. While every attempt at accuracy has been made, the Timeline is a work in progress. The first façade built in the Jesuit style was that of the church of Saint-Gervais (1616); the first church entirely built in the new style was Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis, on rue Saint-Antoine in the Marais between 1627-1647. The first regular publication was the Mercure français, which first appeared in 1611, and then once a year until 1648. She began by planting two thousand elm trees, and commissioned a Florentine gardener, Tommaso Francini, to build the terraces and parterres, and the circular basin the center. 18 August – First regulations governing the height of buildings in Paris and the faubourgs. An even grander carrousel was held on June 5–6, 1662 to celebrate the birth of the Dauphin, the son of Louis XIV. The Confrérie de la Passion tried to have the theater group closed down, claiming that they had the exclusive right to produce plays in Paris, but the new company persisted. In 1660, there were three hundred carriages in the city. He instructed the women visiting the hospital to dress simply, and to speak to the poor with "humility, gentleness and cordiality." The Jardin du Luxembourg was created by Marie de' Medici around her new home, the Luxembourg Palace. Levy, Allison. The position of Provost of the Merchants had no salary, but it had many benefits. In 1789, during the French Revolution, it became the home of the French National Assembly. The new church was constructed at Charenton, six kilometers from the Bastille. The end of the wars of religion allowed the continuation of several building projects, such as the expansion of the Louvre, begun in the 16th century but abandoned because of the war. After the death of his protectors, Richelieu and Louis XIII, the University had his medical license taken away, but eventually the University itself began to offer free medical consultations to the poor. Gaston d'Orleans changed sides, turning against Condé. To provide water for her gardens and fountains, Marie de Medicis had the old Roman aqueduct from Rungis reconstructed. The new style in Paris was characterized by opulence, irregularity, and an abundance of decoration. The Provost received 250,000 livres a year for expenses, he was exempt from certain taxes, and he could import goods without duty into the city. The most important market for luxury goods was located on the Île-de-la-Cité, in the spacious gallery of the old royal palace, where it had been since at least the fourteenth century. “When Isn’t Fashion Fashion? Chased from their home, the actors of Moliere moved to a different theater, called La Couteillle, on the modern rue Jacques-Callot, where they merged with their old rivals, the company of the Hôtel de Bourgogne. Pierre Corneille was from Normandy, Descartes from the Touraine, Jean Racine and La Fontaine from Champagne; they were all drawn to Paris by the publishing houses, theaters, and literary salons of the city. The animals were taken live to the courtyards of the butcher shops in the neighborhoods, where they were slaughtered and the meat prepared. The first decade of the 17th century saw a continuation of many Elizabethan trends, with small changes in skirt length, sleeve shape, and collar types slowly being introduced. LISTING OF THE DAY. At the beginning of the century, the streets of Paris were dark at night, lit only here and there with candles or oil lanterns. When kings needed more money, they simply created more positions. The Faubourg of Saint-Jacques also on the left bank, was largely occupied by monasteries. One good example in its original form is the Hôtel de Sully, (1624-1629), built by Jean Androuret du Cerceau.[77]. Coysevox made a heroic statue of Louis XIV as Fame for the Chateau of Marly (now in the Tuileries Gardens)) and the majestic funeral monuments for Colbert (now in the church of Saint-Eustache); for Andre le Nôtre and Racine (in the Church of Saint-Roch) and for Cardinal Mazarin (in the Louvre). Large wardrobes, cupboards, and cabinets had twisted columns, broken pediments, and heavy moldings. By the end of the 17th century one-third of the colleges of the University had closed, and the remaining thirty-nine colleges had barely enough students to survive. The first permanent theater opened, the Comédie-Française was founded, and the first French opera and French ballets had their premieres. In 1607, Henry IV decided to build a large pump on the Seine next to the Louvre to increase the water supply for the palaces. As a young man, he had been captured by pirates and held as a slave for two years. There were processions for many different saints and holidays, which sometimes led to confrontations between the monks of different orders. The café did not become a great success until it was taken over by a Sicilian, Francesco Procopio dei Coltelli, who had first worked for Pascal in 1672. By 1623, there were several different companies offering the service. The Duke of Luynes died during an unsuccessful military campaign against the Protestants in Montauban. Most of the positions of the Bureau of the City had to be purchased with a large sum of money, but once acquired, many of them could be held for life. They moved further south on the left bank to the modern rue de l'Ancienne-Comédie, where they remained until 1770, before moving back to their present home at the Palais-Royal between 1786 and 1790. Under Louis XIV, the architectural style in Paris gradually changed from the exuberance of the baroque to a more solemn and formal classicism, the embodiment in stone of the King's vision of Paris as "the new Rome." It was also a flourishing center of French science and the arts; it saw the founding of the Paris Observatory, the French Academy of Sciences and the first botanical garden in Paris, which also became the first park in Paris open to the public. Sauval's description of the Courtyard was the source for Victor Hugo's courtyard of miracles in his novel Notre-Dame de Paris, though Hugo moved the period from the 17th century to the Middle Ages. [14], While he disliked the Parisians, Louis XIV wanted to give Paris a monumental grandeur that would make it the successor to Ancient Rome. He decided instead upon a dramatic gesture to win over the Parisians; on July 25, 1593, at the Abbey of Saint-Denis, Henry IV formally renounced his Protestant faith. The number of policemen was quadrupled. Water was scarce in the Left Bank, one reason that part of the city had grown more slowly than the Right Bank. The Medici Fountain was probably also the work of Francini, though it is sometimes attributed to Salomon de Brosse, the architect of the palace. It cost 60,000 livres to become President of the Parlement of Paris, and 100,000 livres to be President of the Grand Council. [71], Music played an important part at the royal court and in Paris society. The standoff between Mazarin and the Fronde continued from 1648 until 1653. Urban innovations for the city included the first street lighting, the first public transport, the first building code, and the first new aqueduct since Roman times. Just below the nobles and ecuyers but above the bourgeois were the notables, who were largely officials in the lesser government structures; officials in the treasury, royal accountants, and lawyers at the Parlement or other high courts. Selling positions in the city government became an effective way to raise funds for the royal treasury. During Restoration England, a young and beautiful peasant named Amber St. Claire seduces her way to Buckingham Palace, but loses her first true love along the way. In 1616, she created another reminder of Florence on the right bank; the Cours la Reine, a long tree-shaded promenade along the Seine west of the Tuileries Gardens. The Petit-Bourbon theater next to the Louvre also continued to present operas until it was demolished in 1660 to make room for the new colonnade of the Louvre, but it was replaced by a large new hall, the Salle des Machines, next to the Tuileries Gardens. The new Academy of Architecture, founded in 1671, imposed an official style, as the academies of art and literature had done earlier. She commissioned the most famous painter of the period, Peter Paul Rubens, to decorate the interior with huge canvases of her life with Henry IV (now on display in the Louvre). The colleges of the University occupied buildings on the side of Mount Saint-Genevieve, on the left bank. By the beginning of the 17th century there were a dozen fountains functioning within the center of the city. The Paris building projects of Henry IV were managed by his forceful superintendent of buildings, a Protestant and a general, Maximilien de Béthune, Duke of Sully.[4]. The edges of the growing city were not clearly defined until 1638, when the royal government drew a new line, which included the Faubourgs on both the right and left banks. Stylistically innovative and technically exceptional, the outstanding reputation of the French clothing industry can be traced as far back as the 17th century, and it is a reputation that has only continued to strengthen since. Cunnington, C. Willett, and Phillis Emily Cunnington. In 1634, he took on a much more challenging task; providing assistance to the patients of the city's oldest and largest hospital, the Hôtel-Dieu, which was terribly overcrowded and under-funded. Thanks largely to her presence on the left bank, and the availability of water, noble families began to build houses on the left bank, in a neighborhood that became known as the Faubourg Saint-Germain. [15], On February 10, 1671, Louis departed Paris and made his permanent residence in Versailles. He and his mother were forced to flee the city twice to the royal château at Saint-Germain-en-Laye. Of the two hundred million livres that Louis spent on buildings, twenty million were spent in Paris; ten million for the Louvre and the Tuileries; 3.5 million for the new royal Gobelins Manufactory and the Savonnerie, 2 million for Place Vendôme, and about the same for the churches of Les Invalides. Unlike a tavern, which served wine by the pot without a meal, a cabaret only served wine accompanied by a meal, served on a tablecloth. The first French opera, Le Triomphe de l'Amour by Beys and Laguerre, was performed at the theater du Marais. An elaborate carrousel took place 5–7 April 1612 at the Place Royale (now the Place des Vosges) to celebrate its completion. [54], The life of Parisians in the 17th century was usually hard and short, and perhaps for this reason the calendar was filled with holidays and celebrations. Between 1638 and 1643, eight more houses of the order were opened to serve food to the poor. Below the craftsmen and artisans was the largest class of Parisians; domestic servants, manual workers with no special qualifications, laborers, prostitutes, street sellers, rag-pickers, and a hundred other trades, with no certain income. In 1616, she had built the Cours-la-Reine a promenade 1.5 kilometers long, shaded by four rows of elm trees, along the Seine. Elections were held for Provost every two years, and for the four positions of echevins, or deputies. The King rejected a design presented by the Italian architect Bernini and chose instead a design by Claude Perrault, brother of Charles Perrault, author of the fairy tales Sleeping Beauty and Cinderella. 27 August – The Day of the Barricades. He built a new hospital for Paris, La Salpêtrière, and, for wounded soldiers, a new hospital complex with two churches, Les Invalides (1674). The eighteenth attempt, on May 14, 1610 by François Ravaillac, a Catholic fanatic, while the King's carriage was blocked in traffic on rue de la Ferronnerie, was successful. It was built between 1605 and 1612, and was named Place Royale, renamed Place des Vosges in 1800. The literature it published was not admired by everyone; the essayist Jean de La Bruyère described its literary quality as "immediately below nothing". Rising prices and the scarcity of food in Paris made the government of Frondeurs more and more unpopular. In 1669, Pierre Perrin, an opera composer, was chartered by the King to produce operas "in music and in French verse comparable to that of Italy." Costume and fashion history from antiquity to the modern age. By 1665, during the reign of Louis XIV, there were 45,780 positions of state. [30], The Bureau of the City had its own courts and prison. [9] In 1629, once the construction of the new palace was underway, land was cleared and construction of a new residential neighborhood began nearby, the quartier Richelieu, near the Porte Saint-Honoré. 2,736 lanterns with candles are installed on 912 streets. He bought the café and began serving coffee, tea, chocolate, liqueurs, ice creams and confitures. Shoes and fine clothing were quickly ruined. [13], As a result of the Fronde, Louis XIV had a profound lifelong distrust of the Parisians. He organized public conferences on topics of public interest. In 1737, he was canonized as a saint by the Catholic Church. Work continued until 1647. The Faubourg Saint-Victor and Faubourg Saint-Marcel were crowded and growing. Between 1624 and 1628 Louis XIII built thirteen new fountains, providing water and decoration on the Parvis of the Cathedral of Notre Dame, on the Place de Greve, Place Maubert, Saint Severin, Place Royale, rue de Buci, porte Saint Michel, and other central points. The last years of the century brought more unhappiness for the Parisians. 21 October – Louis XIV and his court return in triumph to Paris, and take up residence in the Louvre. [47], The water was transported from the fountains to the residences of the Parisians by domestic servants or by water bearers, who, for a charge, carried it in two covered wooden buckets attached to a strap over his shoulders and to a frame. The last of the ancient corporations of Paris, the corporation of the water merchants, had its authority over river commerce taken away and given to the Crown in 1672. The first to hold the title is Jean-Baptiste Le Ragois de Bretonvilliers de Saint-Dié. This was the beginning of the Fronde, a long struggle between Mazarin and the Parlement of Paris and its supporters, and then between Mazarin and two princes of the royal family. Access in many professions was strictly limited to keep down competition, and the sons of craftsmen had priority. Below them were the marchands or merchants, successful members of all the different professions. The Fashion History Timeline is a project by FIT’s History of Art Department.The Timeline offers scholarly contributions to the public knowledge of the history of fashion and design. “King Charles II’s Own Fashion: The Theatrical Origins of the English Vest.”. In 1680, there were an estimated eight thousand five hundred Protestants in the city, or about two percent of the population. King Charles I, in a 1629 portrait by Daniel Mijtens, exemplifies 1620-30s fashions with his paned doublet, full breeches, and gloves with gauntlets made from the finest materials. "[7], Richelieu died in 1642, and Louis XIII in 1643. It enabled her to construct one of the best-known fountains in Paris today, the Medici Fountain, a reminder of her childhood in the Pitti Palace in Florence, in the gardens of the Luxembourg Palace. 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